When I wrote about Hacienda AltaGracia back in June, it had taken me a year to put my thoughts into words because the place had grabbed my soul so completely that it rendered me speechless.
Anyone who knows me will recognise this as a rare occurrence.
What is it about certain places that touches me so deeply? I wondered about that for a long time. And I realised that it happens when a property is deeply immersive without screaming that fact at you.
I had a similar experience at Euphoria Holistic Wellness Retreat in Mystras, Greece. I vowed then and there that I would return and take other people with me — which I did in September 2025.
I felt the same way about Hacienda AltaGracia.
At heart, I’m an introvert. I could retreat to my casita and be perfectly happy with a cup of coffee or glass of wine, gazing at the horizon. Or I could wander along one of the trails, substituting the chatter of Nature for my constant internal dialogue.
I’m equally happy watching my friends ride horses, take an ultralight flight or career through the countryside on an ATV.
That, to me, is the key.
I’m drawn to places that are destinations in their own right. Of course, that usually means exceptional dining, a wonderful spa and beautiful accommodations. But it also means arriving somewhere, closing the door to your room and sighing with the delicious knowledge that you are “home” for the time being.
I made the mistake with my first retreat of organising too many excursions during the week, convinced that everyone should explore the Peloponnese peninsula.
And they should.
But not necessarily when they are staying somewhere that already has everything they need.
By the end of that week, people were staying behind to enjoy the spa and the grounds, motivated by curiosity, euphoria (!) or simply a good book.
So I’ve shifted gears with Hacienda AltaGracia.
Our retreat is four nights, with the option to extend your stay at the property (yes please!), continue on to the coast, or even take a rustic two-day hike up nearby El Chirripó mountain.
That’s if you can leave.
I’ll probably be at Casa de Agua spa, or watching the world not go by from my casita. I’ll cheer you on as you indulge in one of the many activities on offer.
I brought the weekly activity schedule home with me a year ago and I’m still working my way through it.
Kidding.
But I do love the range. There’s everything from coffee-inspired cocktail making (I might actually leave my casita for that) to restorative yoga, learning about local flora and fauna, exploring the butterfly garden and hiking.
Most of these experiences are included. There is an additional fee for activities such as the sloth safari, exploring the area by e-bike, riding the trails with a vaquero, or climbing a Ficus tree.
And we are including the river bathing experience in our retreat because there is nothing quite like being rubbed with coffee grounds, rinsing off in a cold river and then floating in a fire-heated pool.
For once, this is not my British flippancy speaking.
I mean it.
And please don’t think for a second that you’ll be doing all of this from a rustic base with limited amenities, even though you will be surrounded by 180 acres of tropical rainforest.
Hacienda AltaGracia is part of the esteemed Auberge Collection, which ranks in my top two favourite hotel groups (I didn’t really just put that in writing).
It holds one Michelin Key, was named the Best Resort in Central America by Travel + Leisure in 2025 and is included on Condé Nast Traveler’s Gold List.
Without sounding like a brochure, the one- and two-bedroom casitas are spacious, beautifully appointed and blessed with spectacular views. Casa de Agua, the stunning 20,000-square-foot spa, has a pool set within what feels like a massive greenhouse.
And then there is the food.
Well, it’s included.
For a property with just 50 casitas, there are an extraordinary number of ways to eat and drink.
El Mercado serves local coffee and sumptuous baked goods, so that would be my first stop before going anywhere.
If I haven’t had breakfast delivered to my casita, I’ll head to El Grano for a proper Costa Rican breakfast.
Then there’s Las Brisas, which most sensibly serves lunch until 6 p.m. I’m going to linger over ceviche and tacos with a glass of crisp rosé.
Alternatively, I’ll pop into Picoteo for something light because I might be saving myself for the full four-course garden-to-table dinner — or the Costa Rican grill — at El Cultivo.
In between all of this, I’ll be running to El Grano for the Hacienda Sunset Gathering, perhaps staying for dinner, or participating in the Cienfuegos Group Workshop, a fire-based interactive cooking experience.
And then there’s the Bar Ranchito mixology class.
I may need to pop back to El Mercado for a coffee and a snack.
I am not going hungry or thirsty.
I can continue telling you why I love Hacienda AltaGracia, or you can come with me.
We’ll arrive by private plane at the property’s own airstrip — which I nearly forgot to mention. In fact, the round-trip flight is included in your room rate.
June 25–29, 2027
$3,600 per person, double occupancy
$4,700 single occupancy
I am privileged to receive many offers and requests to host retreats in gorgeous locations all over the world. I have visited many of them at this point.
When I choose a retreat location, I have two stipulations:
I must have experienced the property myself. And it must have touched my heart.
I wouldn’t take you anywhere that hadn’t.
